Viewing entries tagged
dog behavior
Kaya's story is a beautiful example of how positive reinforcement training can empower dogs to overcome challenges and truly thrive. It’s about more than just teaching commands; it’s about understanding your dog’s emotions, building trust, and providing them with the tools they need to navigate the world confidently and calmly. We believe that with the right support, dogs can learn to manage their "big feelings" and enjoy a more fulfilling life alongside their human.
By Benah Stiewing
Separation Anxiety is a brutal behavior to experience for both you and your dog. Separation anxiety refers to a group of behaviors a dog will exhibit when left alone, from panting and pacing to ripping holes in the walls. For some dogs, their stress is relatively mild and you may not even realize your dog has anxiety around you leaving. But for others, separation anxiety can make everyday practices extremely difficult, like grocery shopping and going to work.
From the mildest case to the most severe, separation anxiety as a disorder has one underlying commonality: Panic. Your dog isn’t acting out of spite, they aren’t annoyed about your absence, and they aren't trying to punish you for going shopping without them. They are so panicked about being left alone that they can't control themself.
Imagine this scenario. You are driving through a green light, as casually as you like, minding your own business. Suddenly a car comes flying through the opposing red light, right at you. You slam on your brakes. The car swerves, misses you by a hair's breadth, and then proceeds to speed away. Sitting there, gasping, you notice your heart racing; your hands shake a little. Now ask yourself this: In the moment the car hurled toward you, could you have willed yourself to relax? Could you have ordered your heart not to pound? Of course not. You don’t have control over the panic that overtakes your body in a situation like that, nobody does. The brain floods the body with adrenaline to trigger its emergency response.
If you have a dog with separation anxiety, this is what they go through each and every time they are left alone. However illogical, excessive and disconnected from the reality of the situation that response is. Like us, dogs form strong social bonds, which is why the typical symptoms displayed with separation anxiety are those a dog would use to avoid being separated from their family: vocalizing, pacing, scratching, and Houdini-type escape attempts. These symptoms can bring about numerous problems, like complaints from neighbors, costly bills for destroyed property and frightening phone calls about your dog being loose in the neighborhood.
Your dog can’t just “get a grip” on their separation anxiety, but they can get better. How? In time, through a type of training called desensitization, your dog will learn that absences need not be a reason to panic. Desensitization refers to the act of changing a learner’s emotional response to one stimulus by pairing it with the emotional response of a different stimulus. In order to do this, we need to break down the behavior of your dog being alone into much smaller steps. We call these steps the Pre-Departure Routine. We systematically change your dog’s emotional response to these behaviors and then slowly build them together to create the entire behavior chain of leaving your dog alone. This process takes lots of time and dedication, but most dogs are able to make a full recovery from their separation anxiety.
While we’ve provided a light introduction into separation anxiety training, there is so much more to learn! If you have a dog who doesn’t have separation anxiety but you want to be proactive, consider watching Separation Anxiety Prevention Training Starts Now! This pre-recorded webinar follows our CEO, Amber, as she raises her puppy with separation anxiety prevention in mind. If you want additional support for you and your dog, consider working with a Certified Separation Anxiety Trainer (CSAT). Trainers with the CSAT credential are highly trained to support your dog recover from separation anxiety. This training generally occurs virtually, since there is no added benefit to in-person work when focusing on separation anxiety. Our top CSAT referrals are Beth Friedman with Canine Companion Consulting & Jackie Johnston with Believe in Your Dog. If your dog is suffering from separation anxiety, we strongly recommend reaching out to one of these excellent professionals for private training. We don’t currently have a CSAT trainer on our training team, but if you’d like to meet with us first to get our perspective on your dog’s case before seeing a specialist, we’d be happy to support you in a virtual consultation - just email us at admin@summitdogtraining.com to set up!
Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog! If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.
By Benah Stiewing
Counter surfing is so much fun... for your dog! Dogs typically counter-surf for two simple reasons - it's interesting, which enriches their daily life, AND it often pays off with some high value rewards! However fun this behavior is for our dogs, it's typically not something we want them to practice in our homes. Not only is this hazardous for your food and other objects on your counter-tops, it can also be dangerous for your dog if they were to find & consume something unsafe. Below you will find enrichment, management, and training tips to prevent counter surfing and provide your dog with alternative behaviors that are safe and simple.
Because dogs often choose counter-surfing as a fun activity when they are bored and don't have other, more positive outlets, we have to consider enrichment as a key part of our behavior modification plan for counter-surfing. When considering your dog's enrichment needs, you have to take into account your dog's age, breed, & preferred activity level. A dog with a high drive for hunting and working will be getting a lot of mental benefits from their counter-surfing routine, and we need to be ready to replace that with appropriate outlets instead!
Easy Enrichment Activities:
Do training games or food puzzles for many of your dog's regular meals.
Keep a freezer full of frozen Kongs & other stuffable toys for a regular mental exercise when your dog needs it!
Teach your dog sniffing games on the ground, like find the treat or the toy.
Add in some extra walks, runs, hikes, or other physical activities to your dog's weekly routine.
Click here to view our recommended enrichment items & food puzzles!
Management is an essential piece of resolving counter-surfing behavior. If your dog is able to regularly practice getting up on the counters, and subsequently receives reinforcement (even in the form of a tiny little crumb of food), then they are likely going to continue to exhibit this very functional behavior. While we are working on replacing counter-surfing with better behaviors, we need to restrict our dogs' access to areas that have counters when we aren't around to supervise and redirect.
Even when we are around to supervise, sometimes our attention can be divided (i.e. cooking
dinner) and our counter-surfers can use that opportunity to sneak a tasty snack. Having a good management plan in place can help prevent that from happening! In practice, this could look like:
Use baby gates or exercise pens to keep your dog out of the kitchen when unsupervised.
Keep food away in the pantry, cabinets, and/or refrigerator.
Avoid leaving food on the counter as much as possible.
When in the kitchen cooking, use tethering to keep your dog restricted to certain areas.
You can either tether your dog to your waist so you can supervise closely, or pick a nearby doorknob.
The training game below is as simple as it sounds! We want to teach your dog that it’s more reinforcing to have all four feet on the floor. Through the enrichment and management techniques we discuss above, we’ve already made sure that your dog won’t ever be reinforcing for jumping on the counter. Now, we want them to learn what is reinforcing!
Four Paws on the Floor:
In your kitchen or other counter-surfing area, watch your dog and look for times when they have four paws on the floor. Mark and reward, then keep watching. Do they raise their nose up towards the counter surface, but keep their paws on the floor? Mark and reward!
If your dog struggles to even keep all four feet on the floor, you can ask your dog for a sit when they approach the counter.
Remember, we want to prevent the behavior, so ask them for a sit before they have begun to jump on the counter.
You can add in mild distractions on the counter-top (think baby carrots or something else dog-safe) as your dog is ready!
Do you need extra support with your dog’s counter-surfing behavior? We’re here for you! If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person Group Classes and Private Lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you work through your dog’s counter-surfing, it’s vital to remember that your dog is simply being a dog and working to access what is reinforcing - the more we can understand this and pay our dogs well for desired behavior, the better we may serve our dogs.
Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog! If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.
By Benah Stiewing
There are few things better than cuddling up with your dog - simply petting a dog is scientifically proven to increase our oxytocin (a chemical that increases happiness) and decrease cortisol (a chemical that produces stress). However, it’s easy for us to forget that the fluffy, adorable dog in front of you also has needs and desires, and may prefer to be touched in certain ways at certain times, or not touched at all. Consent petting is the practice of reading your dog's body language to determine if, when, and how they want to receive physical affection. This practice is about promoting autonomy and choice in your dog, and can be extremely helpful for more shy or nervous dogs. When we give an animal the ability to choose something, rather than use force, we are showing the animal that we listen to them and will respect their needs.
As a general rule, if you touch your dog in a certain way and they move away from you, it’s safe to assume they didn’t want to be touched like that at that moment. However, just because your dog moves away once doesn’t mean they never want to be touched that way! You may love hugs from certain people at specific times, and other times want nothing of the sort. If your dog reliably moves away from you when you touch them in a certain way, you can assume that sort of touch is unwelcome, but if it only happens at certain times it’s possible they don’t like any touch under those circumstances.
There are a few key forms of communication you can look for! These behaviors are often described as calming signals or cut-off signals, as they generally communicate a dog’s desire to pacify some form of perceived/felt stress or conflict. If you notice your dog practicing these behaviors during an interaction, consider pausing your action and giving your dog a moment to themself. These behaviors include:
Lip licking: dog licks their lips or flick their tongue out from their mouth.
Yawn: dog yawns, sometimes with their lips more curled back.
Turning away: dog turns their head away from the person/dog that is making them nervous.
Raised paw: dog slightly raises a front paw.
Stiff body: dog’s muscles tense and movement slows.
Tail raised: dog’s tail goes half-mast or slightly higher, maybe with a slow wag.
Shake off: dog shakes off entire body.
Now that you’re familiar with some basic communication signals, it’s time to get started with consent petting! Obviously, your dog cannot say “Yes” or “No,” but they can use their proximity to a stimulus to let us know how they’re feeling.
When your dog places themself within an arm's distance from you, use your hand to scratch their neck, under their chin or behind their ears.
It's always better to go under, than over! Reaching over your dog's head can be uncomfortable for them.
Scratch them 2-3 times, and then stop and move your hand back onto your lap.
If they stay where they are or move away from your hand, don't pet again.
If they lean in, nudge you, or paw towards your hand, repeat the above steps for another few scratches.
Repeat!
As you get to know your new dog, you can learn if they like to be touched, how they like to be touched, and how they cmmunicate wanting or not wanting physical affection.
In general, if a dog is moving away from you, that's a good indication to stop, and if a dog is moving towards you, that's a good indication to keep going.
Want to dive deeper into canine body language and communication? Consider watching our webinar, Learning Your Dog’s Body Language! This webinar provides a detailed, holistic approach to understanding your canine best friend.
Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog! If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.
By Benah Stiewing
The Resilience Rainbow is a framework developed by Bobbie Bhambree and Dr. Kathy Murphy. Resilience is an animal’s ability to recover after experiencing a stressful event. Bhambree and Dr. Murphy created a system to build a dog’s overall resilience and increase their ability to reach their baseline. To learn more about the Resilience Rainbow, you can click here. In this piece, I am going to cover the application of this concept with one of my dogs, Osha the 2 year-old Border Collie.
Osha is a stable, friendly-neutral, and confident young dog. She was raised with careful attention to neutrality around other dogs because she lives with another Border Collie who is fearful of other dogs. In January 2023, Osha was attacked by another dog. I use the word “attacked” lightly, as there were no injuries and it was a friend’s dog who rushed Osha. We frequently go on group walks with friends and their dogs, and this was one such walk. A new friend was joining us that day, and her dog rushed Osha as soon as she noticed her. Osha started showing appeasement signals (ears back, low tucked tail wag, rolling over to expose her belly) which only escalated (growl deepened, flipped Osha onto her back, snarling with lips curled back into Osha’s neck) the other dog’s behavior. The entire interaction lasted about 8-10 seconds before they were separated. After they were separated, Osha was clearly extremely stressed. After that day, we went on a 2-week break from engaging with any other dogs as she recovered. During and after this initial decompression period, Osha did not show any signs of increased stress around other dogs. She did not develop any reactivity, and continued to practice lovely skills around unfamiliar dogs we encountered out in the world.
However, I had a gut feeling that something was off about Osha. As the weeks and months passed, I could not put my finger on it. By April, I finally had a realization that Osha no longer engaged in play with other dogs. Before the event, she was a moderately playful dog and would engage her dog friends in appropriate play both inside and outside of the home. I began to realize that while she was still neutral and appropriate with other dogs, there seemed to be a lack of joy and excitement. These are anthropomorphizing words, but there is no better way to describe it. She simply didn’t enjoy her interactions with other dogs anymore.
It’s important to state that this is not an odd or abnormal behavior for a mature Border Collie to develop. It’s very normal for a mature Border Collie to become less playful with other dogs, and interested in other activities. I wondered whether the event had simply coincided with a natural development, but I had this sneaking suspicion that it had not. I spoke to my friends who are also professional dog trainers and behavior consultants, and shared my thoughts. We discussed putting Osha on behavioral medication to explore whether the lack of play was natural or not. If a medication helped ease enough anxiety, would she engage in play again, or still be more interested in other pursuits? I ultimately did not use medication with Osha, simply because she started improving before it happened, but it’s definitely something I would have brought on board with the support of our veterinarian.
While I was considering these options, I started intentionally building Osha’s resilience. I had always been extremely particular about the dogs I allowed to interact with Osha, but I began being even more selective. I only had her around other completely neutral dogs who would not invite her to play or engage at all, beyond a friendly sniff. I didn’t want her to practice the behavior of turning down invitations to play, so I exclusively had her around dogs who wouldn’t ask. If another dog was present, my other Border Collie was always away in his crate or left at home. While he can safely co-exist around most dogs, it’s not something he enjoys and I didn’t want her to observe any stress around other dogs, even the most mild. While I make it a regular practice to play with my dogs everyday, I started incorporating new behaviors into our play routine together. Instead of mostly tugging, we would also play chase where Osha would run after me and catch me, and hide and seek where Osha would have to come find me. After our play sessions, we would lie on the ground together while I stroked her legs and feet, taking deep breaths.
After just a few weeks of implementing these changes, Osha engaged a Rhodesian Ridgeback friend in play. It lasted only about 15 seconds, but it was the first time I’d seen her play with another dog in months. A week later, she engaged a Border Collie friend in play, and it lasted a few minutes this time. Within weeks, she was back to her normal self, playing and having a ball with her dog friends. I was thrilled to see her happy around other dogs again. I can’t say for sure what exactly caused this shift in Osha. Perhaps my attempts to increase her security and stability around other dogs helped her feel safe enough to invite play, or maybe this was a natural progression she would have made anyway. However, I do believe that my integration of the Resilience Rainbow framework helped restore Osha’s trust in me to be her advocate and protector, and feel relaxed enough to once again let loose around other dogs.
I am thrilled that Osha has regained her confidence around other dogs, and is once again able to engage in play and enjoy social interactions. However, I am still extremely careful about her interactions with other dogs, and am cognisant that one brief moment of fear and/or conflict could really set her back. Just like human variances in resilience, some dogs can experience an event like the one described above and shake it off (literally and figuratively!), while dogs like Osha may be heavily impacted by a stressful event. Even though Osha’s symptoms of anxiety have shifted, I still take the same precautions to ensure she feels confident, secure, and relaxed around other dogs. I carefully select her canine friends, and structure the experiences to be what she needs to feel comfortable. Knowing that the steps I’ve taken to relieve Osha’s anxiety have been effective, I will continue to do them for the rest of Osha’s life so that - to the best of my ability - I can preserve her confidence and continue to build resiliency.
Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog! If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.
By Benah Stiewing
Just like in humans, canine adolescence can be a challenging time! Canine adolescence generally starts between 6 months and 12 months and ends between 18 and 24 months, but can fall outside of that period. During adolescence, a part of your dog’s brain called the hypothalamus begins to release a hormone called gonadotropin-releasing hormone (GnRH). Once GnRH is released in large enough quantities, it begins to stimulate the development of your dog’s reproductive organs, pumping out estrogen and testosterone. While critical to your dog’s healthy development, the sheer magnitude of these hormonal changes can cause some difficult behavioral shifts as well! Your dog’s change in behavior may shock or worry you, so it’s important to prepare ourselves and be ready to support our dog during this transition.
First, let’s discuss how we can manage our dog’s environment to help them feel comfortable and relaxed during their adolescence! It’s normal for your dog to have strong emotions about activities or actions that they previously may not have cared much about. For example, if you have family or friends that visit with their dogs, your adolescent may need more breaks and time away to decompress. Maybe your dog has had an excellent recall, even in high-distraction environments, but now it’s less reliable. You and your dog can stay safe by keeping them on a harness and long-line. Baby gates, ex-pens, leashes, and your dog’s crate will really help you both through this developmental period.
Your dog may suddenly become more nervous around unfamiliar people and dogs. Never force an interaction if your dog is worried, this will only reinforce their anxiety. Instead, watch the unfamiliar people and dogs from a distance to allow your teenager to collect information with a feeling of security. We do want to note that while behavior change is normal during this period, extreme behavior changes in your dog should be evaluated by a veterinarian and canine behaviorist. If your dog was solidly house-trained and then begins eliminating throughout your home, definitely have your dog evaluated by their veterinarian. If your dog went from sweet and friendly with strangers to suddenly biting your neighbor, seek professional support.
If you haven’t already, adolescence is the perfect time to start Look At That with your dog! Look At That, or LAT, is a pattern game developed by Leslie McDevitt from her Control Unleashed Program. LAT aims to neutralize the trigger (the thing that your dog has strong emotions about, like another dog or a scary thing) by reinforcing your dog for acknowledging the trigger. This exercise occurs in five steps, outlined below:
Your dog looks at the trigger.
While your dog is looking at the trigger, you say your marker word, such as “Yes!” or “Good!”
Your marker word is the sound you make (either verbally or with a clicker) when your dog is about to receive food. Because your dog experiences food as reinforcing, a behavior that is marked and rewarded will be repeated. You want to be consistent with your marker word because we want the word to have a strong positive association for your dog, or else they would have no reason to turn their attention back to you after looking at the trigger.
Hearing their marker word, your dog redirects their attention to you.
If your dog is unable to redirect their attention back to you, put food directly in front of their nose and try to guide their attention back to you. If you have to do this multiple times, you are too close to the trigger - create more distance and try again.
You reward your dog.
Repeat this sequence as many times as your dog will acknowledge the trigger, either by looking fully at it, or simply twitching an ear towards it.
Surviving your dog’s adolescence is all about meeting your dog where they are at. The rush of hormones they are experiencing can make them feel a little insecure and nervous, so the best we can do is recognize that and make life as simple and fulfilling for them as possible. Increase your time spent doing decompression activities together, like long, slow walks in nature where your dog is free to sniff and explore to their heart’s content. Instead of feeding meals in a bowl, switch to feeding in puzzle toys, like Kongs and Topls. Overall, we want your adolescent dog to practice relaxation over high-arousal activities, like fetch or going to the dog park. While these activities aren’t bad, we want to be careful to balance them out with decompressing activities where your dog is able to truly relax and you can take some deep breaths together.
If you’re nervous about your puppy’s upcoming adolescence or currently in the throes of teenhood, we now offer Smells Like Teen Spirit! This is a 6-week virtual class that provides guidance, insight, and support for your dog to not just survive, but thrive during adolescence. The class is bursting with information, presented through recorded lectures, written instructions, and demonstration videos.
If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person Private Lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you experience your dog’s adolescence, it’s critical to remember that your dog isn’t being bad, they are having a bad time. The more we can understand this and meet them where they’re at, the stronger your relationship will be.
Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog! If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.
By Benah Stiewing
What is resource guarding? Resource guarding is a term that refers to behaviors a dog demonstrates in order to protect a resource from potential loss. The resource could be just about anything, including food, toys, bowls, water, their crate or bed, space in the house or yard, or you. Some dogs resource guard from people, some from other dogs, and some from both. The act of protecting what is one’s own is a very normal behavior for any animal to demonstrate, humans included! We erect fences, install cameras, and maybe even purchase a dog to protect what is ours, while dogs use different means. Resource guarding from your dog could look like growling, snarling, hard staring, hovering, or lunging when another person or dog comes too close to their perceived resource. Though resource guarding is a natural behavior, it can be dangerous for us and our dog to practice, so below you will find some helpful management strategies and training tips to set your dog up for success!
Once your dog begins demonstrating guarding behaviors around resources, it’s very easy for the practice to escalate. If your dog is enjoying a bone and they growl or snarl when you lean down to take the bone, and you understandably back away, the guarding behavior is reinforced. The guarding behavior has worked because the perceived threat moved away. We want to avoid this accidental reinforcement through management! Though resource guarding can be scary and emotional, we never want to punish our dog or take the item from them right there - all this does is reinforce that humans are scary and will take their things. We’d rather our dogs learn that resource guarding behaviors on the mild end of the spectrum are all that is necessary for them to maintain their resource - while we teach them through quality behavior modification principles how to feel better about giving up their resources!
Management Strategies:
When your dog is enjoying a resource they typically guard, like their food or a bone, put them in an enclosed space (like their crate) while they enjoy the item. When they are done with the items, release them from their crate and then put them in a different area while you remove the item.
If your dog isn’t crate-trained, follow the same protocol but use an ex-pen or baby gate to enclose your dog into one space.
If your dog guards toys, put toys away rather than leaving them out in the living room where a resource guarding event could occur.
If your dog guards spaces, like a certain room or bed, don’t allow them into that room or near that bed until you and your trainer have a solid training plan implemented.
If you absolutely need to get an item from your dog and don’t have them in an enclosed space, do not punish or yell at them to get the item. Instead, grab a handful of high-value cookies and scatter them a few feet away from your dog. When your dog starts eating the cookies, steadily continue dropping treats as you grab the item.
Please Note: These are general management suggestions; depending on the severity of your dog’s behavior, and other factors (such as if there are children in the home), a more customized management plan developed in partnership with your trainer may be needed.
Once you have a solid management strategy in place, it’s time to start training! Our first step is to start trading with your dog. Trading is all about switching the narrative! Instead of a human approaching representing a potential loss, we want a human approaching to represent something really good about to happen.
Give your dog something special but not special enough that they might guard it (like an empty food bowl).
While your dog is investigating the item, simply take a few steps toward them and scatter a handful of treats on the ground right in front of their face.
If they begin eating the cookies, verbally praise and scatter a few more treats.
Repeat this cycle multiple times, until every time you approach your dog looks at you expectantly for the handful of treats!
Once your dog is excitedly anticipating treats when you approach, pick up the food bowl as you do your treat scatter.
If your dog continues eating, put the food bowl down and scatter another handful of treats.
Repeat!
If your dog has made it this far and is still excitedly anticipating treats when you approach, gradually start to raise the value of the item you are taking. First just add a handful of kibble, or even smother some treats on it so it smells good. Be extremely mindful of your dog’s body language as you escalate difficulty, and stop if you notice that your dog is hard staring, hovering over the item, or moving stiffly. Make sure to space out these sessions over days/weeks, so it’s a gradual learning process.
Again, please note: if your dog has a history of strong resource guarding behavior (growling, snapping, biting) towards you, you will need to proceed through this carefully, slowly, and with detailed attention to your dog’s body language. We recommend consulting with a trainer before implementing if you are concerned for your safety. Do not give your dog something that they are likely to guard with the purpose of taking it away in the name of “training.” This is setting both you and your dog up for failure.
In addition to the above protocol, a few times a day simply approach your dog, say “Drop it!” and scatter a handful of treats on the ground in front of their face. You can learn more about this training technique by watching this video by Chirag Patel! We want your approach towards them to equal good things, all the time.
Rehabilitating and coping with a dog who resource guards is no easy task - it’s a complex behavior that requires a lot of effort to improve. If you’re struggling, consider our Resource Guarding Case Study Webinar! If you want additional support for you and your dog, we offer in-person support for Resource Guarding through Private Lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado and Chatham, New York, and virtual coaching right in the comfort of your home. As you work through your dog’s resource guarding, it’s vital to remember that your dog is simply being an animal and desperately trying to protect and preserve what is theirs - the more we can understand this and meet them where they’re at, the stronger your relationship will be.
Summit Dog Training offers group dog training classes & private lessons in Fort Collins, Colorado, as well as online self-study courses & online private lessons for education on how to live the best life with your dog! If you are looking for more training support, please don’t hesitate to contact us! We’d love to help you and your dog get ready for any adventure.
