Helping Small Dogs & Big Dogs Be Friends!

Helping Small Dogs & Big Dogs Be Friends!

While it may seem funny, small dogs and big dogs can make the best of friends! Take best friends Jamie and Pirate for example! These two learned how to be great companions who know how to play safely & kindly. Sometimes, small dogs need a couple extra breaks as well as a few safety precautions to ensure a fun time. Check out these tips on how to successfully introduce small dog and big dog friends!

1. Keep the small dog’s comfort and desires in mind. Many small dogs, especially those that are older and may not have a lot of experience being in close proximity with larger dogs, use overt communication like growling or snapping to get across their needs & wants. This is a safety feature, and something that we should respect that the small dog feels the need to do in order to feel safe in this situation. If the small dog is being pushed past their comfort level consistently, then this likely means we need to back off those interactions a bit, maybe have the large dog a bit further away on a leash or behind a baby gate, so that the small dog can start with learning that being near to the large dog is a safe and comfortable thing to do.

2. Keep interactions focused on quality over quantity. If the large dog has been self-controlled near the small dogs for a bit, it may be time to separate, give the pups a different activity to do & let both of them take a break. This is so that things stay within a productive zone and the small dog doesn’t need to demonstrate with overt behaviors that they are done with the interaction.

3. Teach the large dog that when their small dog friend might growl or snap at them, that means GREAT things happen from you across the room. This could mean a treat, special play time, you getting exciting and making a fun fuss over them, etc. If their small dog says “I need space” and the other dog immediately gets rewarded across the room from you, this will help to teach them how to listen to the small dog’s request by walking away and finding something else to do instead.

4. Teach the large dog friend good skills like checking in with you, calmly watching an exciting thing (such as a small dog friend) across the room, being calm on a leash, settle on a mat, etc. All of these skills can help a smaller dog feel safer around a large dog, and the large dog is learning to check and control some of their impulses that could be well-intentioned but physically risky for a small dog friend. If a large dog can get used to lying down near a small dog friend, this can be less overwhelming & intimidating, meaning the small dog will often feel less discomfort and less need to do those other behaviors. Teach your small dog some of these same skills as well!

5. Make sure the small dog has lots of easy escape routes. If your small dog jumping up on the sofa or into a lap should be a cue to call the large dog away and give the small dog a break. Dividing a living room space with an exercise pen so that the small dog can be on one side while the large dog hangs out on the other can be another great way to create a safe space for them to be side-by-side. During play time, having obstacles for the small dog to duck under to get out of the way from underfoot of their large dog friend can be helpful for a quick break & safety.

6. Choose side-by-side activities whenever possible instead of head-to-head activities. Things like going for a walk or hike together instead of nose-to-nose social time in the backyard can be a great way to help a small dog feel comfortable in the vicinity of a large dog, while the activity is moving both dogs forward instead of towards each other.

Follow these tips and tricks to help introduce your small dog to a new big friend, or vice versa! Remember to always start slow and work your way up to a let-loose play time. Jamie and Pirate say, “we may be different sizes, but we are the two best friends ever!”

Teaching "Picky" Pups to Eat!

Teaching "Picky" Pups to Eat!

Eating is a learned behavior, which means that it is something that can be taught, just like any other behavior.  If you have a “picky” or food-selective pup, it is important to think about how we can teach them how to eat more consistently. 

This is an overview of our webinar on this topic. If you want more in-depth help & support on this topic, you can check out the webinar replay Teaching “Picky” Pups to Eat here

Besides getting good & consistent nutrition, there are many other reasons why eating is an important behavior for our pups to know how to do appropriately! 

  • Training: Eating is a very helpful component of positive reinforcement training! There are lots of other ways we can apply positive training principles if using food isn’t an option, but being able to reward quickly with a treat is very convenient and efficient for a lot of training goals!  

  • Enrichment: Being able to eat food out of food puzzles is a great way to exercise our dog’s brains and provide mental stimulation. If our dogs don’t care for the food in the toy, it is difficult to encourage them to play. 

  • Threshold Assessment: If our dogs can eat food in most situations, we can then evaluate how comfortable they are in other scenarios. If we first have a solid baseline of “okay, my dog can eat food easily out of my hand at home where he is comfortable…” then we know if they all of a sudden can’t eat food out of your hand because you are outside in a busy park, then your dog may be over threshold. Using food is a great, easy, way to gage your dog’s comfort in a situation and provides a channel of communication between you and your dog. 

  • Health Assessment: Eating can be a great way to evaluate your dog’s health. Again, if your dog can have a baseline eating behavior such as being able to eat comfortably at home, then when they pass up a meal or their favorite puzzle toy, we can know something isn’t quite right. 

We cannot emphasize this line of communication enough with our dogs! If our dogs can learn the behavior of eating, it can tell us so many things when they choose to, or not to, eat. 

It’s also important to note that some food-selective dogs that we might label as “picky” may in fact just be over-threshold in a lot of situations. For example, if you have a puppy that eats regular meals at home, and likes working for treats in its own backyard, but then won’t eat at training class, this is likely just because your puppy hasn’t yet learned the behavior of eating enough to withstand the exciting stimuli in that environment, and thus all of the other behaviors (watching other dogs, getting excited about the people nearby, etc.) are more likely to occur than eating.  Similarly, if you have a reactive dog (one that barks at other dogs or people or other things you encounter), that cannot eat food in the presence of one of these triggers, it may not be because your dog doesn’t like food, but rather the behavior of eating isn’t built up to withstand the level of difficulty where we are asking that dog to eat.  

So how do we teach our “picky” pups to eat?

  • Reinforce Eating with Other Things: What does your dog enjoy doing?  How can we make access to that activity contingent on eating a treat or a bite or two of their evening meal?  Examples that I often use are activities like playing with a favorite toy, getting attention and praise from you, chewing on a yummy bone, getting access to a new area like a yard or getting out of the car, sniffing, peeing on stuff, etc.  Dog eats a bite of food, gets let out in the backyard to play.  Repeat!

  • Set Appropriate Criteria: Think about what environments your dog might feel comfortable eating in.  Do they eat at home?  Do they eat in a quiet room by themselves?  Start with building consistent eating where it’s easy for them to be successful, rewarding them when they do eat.  Then expand the criteria a bit, such as asking for a bit of eating in the front yard. 

  • Start with High Value: Many, many (although certainly not all) “picky eater” situations have been resolved simply by increasing the value of what you are offering.  If your dog is turning up their nose at the milk bone crumbles you have, perhaps starting with something a little bit more exciting like a small piece of hot dog or cheese instead.  It’s important to still focus on building consistent eating habits so that if the novelty of these yummy treats wears off, we have eating behaviors that can withstand moving to treats of different values. You won’t always need to give hotdogs & cheese if we are teaching our dogs that in general, eating is a pretty enjoyable activity!

  • Avoid Upping The Ante Pitfall: For both training & meal feeding purposes, it can be easy to fall into the trap of increasing the value of what you are offering after your dog has refused the first thing you offered them.  This could look like picking up a neglected kibble bowl and adding in scrambled eggs and putting it back down, or reaching into the training treat pouch and finding that cheese piece after your dog has refused a piece of milk bone.  This can inadvertently teach your dog that refusing food will get them something better!  For meal feeding, we recommend instead if you offer your dog just kibble food and they refuse, removing the food and waiting until the next meal; if you want to add something to their food to make it more exciting, do it before you offer it to them for the FIRST time rather than after they have refused the plain meal.  For training, start with the higher value treats.  You can reduce the value as your dog is getting into the behavior pattern of eating. 

We are just scratching the surface here, and there are a lot more factors to consider when working with “picky” pups.  If you are interested in learning more, check out the webinar replay on this topic for lots of specific suggestions & video examples for teaching our pups how to eat with ease! 

Flirt Pole Games

Flirt Pole Games

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Have you heard about this super fun toy & training game you can play with your dog?  

A Flirt Pole is a tug toy attached to the end of a rope, which is attached to a pole that you control. You maintain control of the toy with the rigid end of the pole so that you can move the toy around for your dog to engage with!  It can be a fun toy, an exercise tool, and our personal favorite: a training reinforcement tool. 


Our Favorite Flirt Poles:

What makes the Flirt Pole different from a regular toy? 

  • You Keep Control: When we use a regular toy as a reward, when tossed your dog can decide whether or not to bring it back.  We can spend a lot of time teaching our dog to bring toys back, but the flirt pole gives us a convenient short cut!  That’s not to say we don’t teach great release-on-cue skills, but it’s nice to keep ourselves involved in the game a bit more easily!  

  • The Flirt Pole Toy Moves! A Flirt Pole can also be more engaging for most dogs than a regular toy. If you have a pup that isn’t as interested in regular toys, this may be the perfect solution to get them engaged! When you toss a regular toy, it essentially “dies” and loses its excitement. With the Flirt Pole, you continuously have the ability to make the scenario more or less exciting depending on what you need. 

The ability to control the toy easily, and make it move in exciting ways, really makes the flirt pole a great option to be used as a training reinforcer. You can easily make it vary in excitement based on your dog’s behavior. We can change the value of the toy and be very responsive to how engaging it is because we have prompt control of the toy.  For example, if we are teaching our dog how to release a toy on cue, we can make the toy go flat, or “die”, to make it less exciting, prompting our dogs to release the toy. 

What flirt pole games & skills should you teach?
Teaching good play skills is an important part of using & training with the flirt pole correctly & successfully.  

I teach the following foundation skills as part of my flirt pole routine:

  • Get Toy on Cue - Our flirt-pole-playing pups need to know when we are ready to start the game! I teach “Get It” means it’s time to grab the toy to play!

  • Release When You Freeze / Release When You Cue - Releasing when you are ready for a pause in the game is so important. I start by freezing the toy (making it boring), then immediately the game starts again when the dog lets go of the toy. After dog is quickly letting go of the toy, I start adding in a verbal release cue.

  • Stimulus Control: Don’t Chase the Toy Unless Cued - The game doesn’t start until the magic words happen! After my dog has a good understanding of the “Get It” cue means the game is starting, I start adding in longer pauses before I give that cue, and maybe putting the toy in different positions (ground, hand, table, etc.). I reward my dogs for waiting by giving the “Get It” cue while they are doing a calm behavior instead!

  • Pick Up Dead Toy on the Ground - I teach my dogs a cue that means run to pick up the toy that is lying on the ground, then the game starts. I use this for adding distance & distraction to recall & stay cues, as well as advanced sequences like agility where I might need the toy to be away from my hands during our training.

  • Settle Between Toy Play - Being able relax and take a break between exciting things is such an important life skill! I use my flirt pole to practice this!

Once I have these foundation skills built, I incorporate the flirt pole as a reinforcer into a training routine for other important life skills! 

Here are just a few of the life skills that I have used the flirt pole to train & reinforce: 

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  • Good understanding of stimulus control (doing the right behaviors on cue and only on cue)

  • Building a positive conditioned emotional response for scary or unpleasant things like wearing coats, loud noises, playing in the cold, etc. 

  • Teaching eating skills for dogs who would rather play than eat food

  • Building good manners skills around exciting environmental distractions

  • Rocket recall & stays

  • Tricks & fun!


To learn more about Flirt Poles & see lots of videos for teaching each of these skills, check out our webinar replay on Flirt Pole Games!  This webinar goes in depth on how we teach great flirt pole skills and how we use it correctly in our training structure!